How-to

How to 3D Print Multicolor Pokemon with Bambu Lab AMS

A step-by-step walkthrough for printing pre-painted Pokemon 3MF files on a Bambu Lab printer with AMS, plus the settings that reduce color bleed and waste.

How to 3D Print Multicolor Pokemon with Bambu Lab AMS
Photo by Alexander Grey on Unsplash

Multicolor printing used to mean pausing mid-print to swap filament by hand. With a Bambu Lab AMS and a properly authored 3MF file, the printer does it for you. Here's the whole workflow.

From the shop · Etsy 262 Pokemon Multicolor STL & 3MF Pack | Bambu Lab AMS + Prusa MMU | Commercial License | Instant Digital Download 20.00 EUR

Why you want a 3MF, not an STL

An STL is just geometry — one color, no paint data. A 3MF stores per-region color assignments. When a model is authored for AMS, the designer has already decided which parts are which color, so you skip the tedious painting step in the slicer entirely. Our multicolor packs include the AMS-ready 3MF and a plain STL fallback.

Step 1: open the file in Bambu Studio

Drag the *_AMS_Bambu_Lab_X1C.3mf file into Bambu Studio (or Orca). The model loads with its color groups intact — you'll see the painted preview immediately.

Step 2: map colors to AMS slots

Open the filament list and assign each color group to an AMS slot. You don't need the exact brand colors; pick the closest filament you own. Four slots cover almost every Pokemon; a few complex models use color painting to combine shades.

Step 3: cut the purge waste

Every color change purges filament. On tall multicolor prints that waste adds up. Two settings tame it:

  • Flush volumes: lower them for similar colors, keep them high only for dark→light transitions.
  • Flush into object infill / support: enable both so purged filament is reused instead of dumped.
Reality check: a "poop chute" of waste is normal. Batching several small figures on one plate is far more efficient than printing them one at a time.

Settings that actually matter

SettingSuggested
Layer height0.12–0.16 mm for figures
Walls3 perimeters
Infill10–15% gyroid
SupportsTree (auto), on for winged/dynamic poses

New to bundles? The Kanto printing guide is a good next read.

Avoiding color bleed and banding

Color bleed — a faint smear of the previous color into the next — comes from under-purging. If a white belly picks up grey from a dark back, raise the flush volume for that specific dark-to-light transition rather than globally, so you don't waste filament on easy changes. Banding on single-color sections usually means a partially clogged nozzle or wet filament, not the AMS itself.

Get more figures per gram

Multicolor's dirty secret is waste, but you control most of it. Enable flush into infill and flush into support so purged plastic is reused inside the model instead of dumped. Batch several small figures on one plate so a single purge serves them all. And order your color list so similar colors sit next to each other, minimising big flushes. Done well, a plate of chibis wastes far less than printing each alone.

FAQ

Do I need an AMS to use the 3MF files?

No. The 3MF is optimized for AMS/MMU multicolor, but every multicolor pack also includes a plain STL you can print in a single color on any machine.

How many colors can I use?

The AMS holds four spools by default and can be chained. Most Pokemon are authored for four colors or fewer, using slicer color painting for extra detail.

Is multicolor slower than single color?

Yes - color changes add purge time. Print several figures per plate and tune flush volumes to keep both time and waste down.

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