Best Print Settings for Pokemon Miniatures (FDM & Resin)
Copy-paste starting profiles for FDM and resin, plus the handful of settings that decide whether your figure looks sharp or fuzzy.
You don't need to dial in fifty parameters. Get these right and 90% of Pokemon figures come out great.
From the shop · Etsy 149 Pokemon Kanto Multicolor STL & 3MF | Bambu Lab AMS + Prusa MMU | Commercial License | Gen 1 Digital Download 10.00 EURFDM starting profile
| Setting | Figures | Why |
|---|---|---|
| Layer height | 0.12–0.16 mm | Smoother curves, sharper faces |
| Walls / perimeters | 3 | Strength + clean surface |
| Infill | 10–15% gyroid | Plenty for a display piece |
| Print speed | Moderate | Slower = cleaner on detail |
| Cooling | 100% (PLA) | Crisp overhangs and points |
Resin starting profile
Exposure is resin-and-printer specific, so run a calibration test (like a Cones of Calibration) first. As a starting point for standard resin at 0.05 mm layers: normal exposure in the 2–3 s range on a modern mono LCD, with a few burn-in bottom layers. Then adjust up if detail is soft, down if fine features are fused.
Supports without regret
- FDM: tree/organic supports, only where overhang exceeds ~50°. Enable a support interface for cleaner removal.
- Resin: angle the model 30–45°, keep supports off the face, and add a raft. Hollow larger models and add drain holes.
Scaling
Our models are designed around 60–100 mm. Scale up freely. Scale down and, on FDM, fine points (ears, flames, teeth) start to vanish below ~50 mm — that's where resin earns its keep.
Grab a pack and use one figure as your profile test model.
Dial it in with test prints
Profiles get you 90% of the way; the last 10% is calibration. Print a temperature tower to find the cleanest temp for your exact filament, then a retraction test to kill stringing. Save the result as a custom profile and reuse it — you only do this once per filament. A well-tuned printer plus a good profile beats an expensive printer running defaults.
Speed vs quality
Faster isn't free. On figures, high speed and acceleration cause ringing (ghosting) around detail and can round off sharp points. Drop speed on the outer walls specifically — most slicers let you slow just the perimeters — so you keep detail where it shows without paying the time cost everywhere. For a display piece, a slightly slower print is almost always worth it.
FAQ
What layer height is best for Pokemon figures?
0.12-0.16 mm on FDM balances detail and time; 0.05 mm on resin gives display-grade smoothness. Use finer layers for smaller or more detailed models.
How much infill do figures need?
10-15% gyroid is plenty for a display figure. Go higher only if you plan to sand and handle the model heavily.
Why do my small prints lose detail?
Below about 50 mm on FDM, nozzle width limits fine features. Print larger, or switch to resin for small, detailed figures.
