Frequently asked questions

A 3D printer (FDM or resin), a slicer app (free: Bambu Studio, PrusaSlicer or Orca), filament or resin, and a model file (STL or 3MF). For FDM, PLA and a printer like a Bambu A1 or Prusa MK4 is the easiest start.

An STL is pure geometry with no color. A 3MF can also store color and print settings, which is why pre-painted multicolor models ship as 3MF for Bambu AMS or Prusa MMU. Use STL for single-color, 3MF for automatic multicolor.

No. To print existing models you only need a slicer, which turns a downloaded file into printer instructions. CAD is only needed if you want to design your own models.

A large, flat-bottomed, low-overhang figure like Snorlax or a chibi starter. They need minimal supports and are very forgiving while you dial in your printer.

For easy multicolor, a Bambu Lab with AMS. For control and reliability, a Prusa with MMU. For the finest detail, an Elegoo resin printer. See our printer comparison guide for the full breakdown.

PLA for almost all figures: easy, low-warp and available in every color. PETG for durable parts, ABS only if you need heat resistance and have an enclosure and ventilation.

Resin captures far finer detail and is ideal for small display minis, but prints in one color and needs washing, curing and safety gear. FDM is cheaper, easier and does effortless multicolor with an AMS.

On FDM, a desk-sized figure typically uses well under a euro of PLA. Resin costs a bit more per model once you factor in resin and IPA, but both are inexpensive per piece.

0.12-0.16 mm on FDM balances detail and time; 0.05 mm on resin gives display-grade smoothness. Use finer layers for smaller or more detailed models.

10-15% gyroid is plenty for a display piece. Go higher only if the model will be handled heavily or sanded.

Almost always first-layer adhesion: an unclean or unlevel bed, wrong Z-offset or low bed temperature. Clean the plate with IPA, re-level, and add a brim for small footprints.

Use tree supports, raise the support Z-distance slightly, enable a support interface layer, and orient the model so supports avoid detailed areas like the face.

Use a printer with an AMS (Bambu) or MMU (Prusa) and a pre-painted 3MF file. The printer swaps filament automatically. Without one, you can still hand-paint a single-color print.

Lower flush volumes for similar colors, enable 'flush into infill/support', and batch several small models per plate so purge is shared.

Prime it, block in base colors with thin acrylic coats, apply a dark wash to create shadows, dry brush lighter tones for highlights, then seal with matte varnish. See our painting guide.

Only if the file's license allows commercial use. Many models are for personal use only. Always check the license, and remember character IP belongs to its owners.

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